Squid can feel a little more daunting to cook than other kinds of seafood, but once you've got to know it, it's one of the quickest and most rewarding things you can bring to the table. Cooked well, it has sweet, delicate flesh with a clean taste of the sea and pairs beautifully with everything from garlic, herbs and lemon to warming spices, tomatoes and smoky chillies.

Around Britain we're fortunate to have two commonly landed species, the European squid (Loligo vulgaris) and the veined squid (Loligo forbesii), both found throughout the northeast Atlantic and the Mediterranean. They're at their best from summer into late autumn, and although squid are available throughout the year, I try to avoid buying them during the main spawning season, which generally falls between winter and spring. If you can, seek out jig-caught squid from Cornwall or Scotland. Jigging is an exceptionally selective method of fishing with very little bycatch and remains one of the most sustainable ways to catch them. As a guide, I also prefer squid with a body length of around 16cm or more, giving them a chance to reproduce before they're caught.