A particularly good burger (and wonderful brioche buns)

A particularly good burger (and wonderful brioche buns)

Summer

A good burger is hard to beat, especially when cooked over a fire. I'm not overcomplicating things here. The beef is a blend of chuck and short rib, minced at home and simply seasoned with salt and pepper. The thing that sets this burger apart is the thick slices of beefsteak tomato, grilled with anchovies and capers until soft and lightly charred. The anchovies melt into the tomato, the capers add little bursts of saltiness and the whole thing sits rather well alongside melted cheddar and a soft brioche bun.

Serves 4

Ingredients

For the brioche buns

  • 500g strong white bread flour
  • 8g fine sea salt
  • 35g caster sugar
  • 8g fast action dried yeast
  • 2 whole eggs
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 180ml whole milk, lukewarm
  • 50ml water, lukewarm
  • 80g unsalted butter, very soft
  • 1 Tbls sunflower oil
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 Tbls milk
  • Sesame seeds, optional

For the burgers

  • 700g chuck steak
  • 300g beef short rib
  • Sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 slices mature cheddar cheese

For the tomatoes

  • 2 large ripe beefsteak tomatoes
  • 12 best quality salted anchovy fillets in oil
  • 4 tsp baby capers
  • 1 Tbls extra-virgin olive oil
  • Sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper

To serve

  • 2 tsp Dijon mustard
  • A few little gem lettuce leaves or mixed salad leaves

Method

Place the flour into the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the salt to one side and the sugar and yeast to the other.

Whisk together the eggs, egg yolk, milk, water and sunflower oil. Pour into the flour and begin mixing on a low speed until a shaggy dough forms. Knead for about 8 minutes until smooth and elastic.

With the mixer running, add the butter a little at a time, allowing each addition to fully incorporate before adding more. Continue kneading for another 8 to 10 minutes until the dough is silky, stretchy and slightly tacky.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover and leave somewhere warm for about 1½ hours, or until doubled in size.

Knock the dough back gently and divide into 8 equal pieces, around 105 to 110g each. Shape tightly into smooth balls and place onto lined baking trays, leaving good space between them.

Cover loosely and leave to rise again for 1 to 1½ hours until very puffed and light.

Preheat the oven to 190°C fan or 210°C conventional.

Mix the egg yolk with the milk and brush the buns carefully all over. Scatter with sesame seeds if using.

Bake for 15 to 17 minutes until deeply golden brown. Leave to cool on a wire rack.

For the very best texture, allow the buns to cool completely, then split and toast the cut sides lightly before serving.

Cut the chuck steak and short rib into rough cubes and spread them out on a tray. Place in the freezer for about 30 minutes so the meat firms up but does not freeze solid.

Pass the beef through a coarse mincing plate into a chilled bowl. Season generously with sea salt and black pepper and mix lightly with your fingertips. Divide into four equal portions and gently shape into burgers around 2cm thick. Try not to compact them too firmly.

Slice the tomatoes into four thick rounds. Lay them on a tray and season with sea salt and black pepper. Trickle over the olive oil, then arrange 3 anchovy fillets over each slice and scatter over 1 

Cook the burgers for about 3 to 4 minutes on the first side. Turn them over and cook for a further 2 to 3 minutes, or until nicely caramelised but still pink in the middle. Lay a slice of cheddar over each burger for the final minute of cooking.

At the same time, place the tomato slices onto the grill alongside the burgers. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until the undersides are lightly charred and blistered and the tomatoes have softened. The anchovies should begin to melt into the tomatoes and the capers will warm through.

Split and lightly toast the brioche buns. Spread the cut sides with a little Dijon mustard and arrange a few lettuce leaves over the bottom halves.

Set the burgers onto the lettuce, then top each one with a grilled tomato slice along with its anchovies and capers. Finish with the bun lids and serve straight away.

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