Bubble & squeak, fried pig’s cheek & poached egg

Bubble & squeak, fried pig’s cheek & poached egg

Winter

Bubble and squeak was something we used to eat on one of the quieter, slower mornings after Christmas Day. There always seemed to be cooked, cold sprouts left over and maybe some mashed potato (never any roast potatoes, though), which was a fairly typical accompaniment to the Boxing Day ham. Fry mash and sprouts and salty-sweet bacon, or in this case guanciale, or cured pig’s cheek, and you have a wonderful breakfast. Poached or fried eggs are optional (really meaning mandatory).

Serves 2

Ingredients

  • 1 knob of butter
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 onion, sliced
  • about 200g (7oz) cooked sprouts, sliced thinly
  • 250g (9oz) cold mashed potato
  • 2 thick slices cured pig’s cheek or pancetta
  • 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
  • 2 eggs
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to low, or turn on the warming oven, if you have one.

To make the bubble-and-squeak mixture, heat a medium non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the butter and olive oil and, when it’s bubbling, add the onion. Cook, stirring regularly for 10–12 minutes, until the onion is soft and sweet. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the onion from the pan to a large bowl. Add the sliced sprouts to the onion, along with the cold mashed potato. Season with salt and pepper.

Place the sliced pig’s cheek into the hot pan and fry for 2–3 minutes on each side, until lovely and crispy on the outside and soft in the middle. Remove from the pan and keep the cheek warm in the low oven. Turn up the heat under the pan and add the bubble-and-squeak mixture. Fry, flipping, cutting and turning it all as it browns and crisps in the pan.

Meanwhile, bring a medium pan of water to the boil and add the vinegar. Twirl a spoon in the water to make a mini whirlpool. Crack the eggs in, turn the heat down to low and cook for 2½–3 minutes, until the eggs are soft-poached. (Remember: the fresher the eggs, the better they poach.) Remove the eggs carefully with a slotted spoon. Set aside to keep warm.

To serve, place the pig’s cheeks onto warmed plates next to a spoonful of bubble and squeak and a poached egg, then crack over some salt and black pepper, if you wish.