Clams with tomato, pastis & parsley

Autumn

How exquisite a thing is pastis; its clarity and its milkiness. It is the anise in the drink that lends itself to this dish so well. To the tomatoes it is an antidote; and to the shellfish, a drug. I like to serve these clams with a creamy polenta, which thanks to its nature, makes a perfect canvas. However, a buttery mash would work equally well. If you can’t get hold of clams, then try this with mussels; it works in the same way.

Serves 2

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, halved and finely diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
finely grated zest of ½ lemon
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
2 bay leaves
1 rosemary sprig
1 x 400g (14oz) tin good-quality chopped tomatoes
½ teaspoon sugar
100ml (3½fl oz) pastis or Pernod
1kg (2lb 4oz) live clams, washed thoroughly (discard any with broken or open shells)
2–3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Set a large, heavy-based pan over a medium–high heat. Add the olive oil and, when hot, add the onion and garlic. Season with a little salt and pepper and stir regularly, cooking for 6–8 minutes, until the onion is soft but not coloured.

Add the lemon zest, fennel seeds, bay and rosemary and continue to cook for another 2–3 minutes. Stir in the chopped tomatoes, then half fill the empty tin with water and pour in the water, too. Add the sugar, season with more salt and pepper, and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 20–25 minutes, stirring regularly, until the sauce is rich and thick.

Now, add the pastis or Pernod and turn up the heat. Once the liquid is boiling, add the washed clams, stir once, shake twice and place a close-fitting lid on the pan.

Cook for 3–4 minutes (shaking intermittently), or until all the clam shells are open. (Discard any clams that remain closed.) Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the chopped parsley and serve straight away.

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