Cockles with leeks, Pernod, dill and cream

Spring

The scientific name for the cockle family has its root in the ancient Greek for things related to the heart, καρδία (cardia). Perhaps it’s the heart-like shape of their corrugated shells that earned them this name, or perhaps it has more to do with the hard-working muscle inside, reminiscent of a heart and so good to eat, especially at this time of year. Maybe Molly Malone could tell us the answer, she of the Irish song, who famously sold cockles and mussels alive, alive, oh, in Dublin’s fair city. Judging from that atmospheric ode, she must have known a lot about her produce.

I’ve always enjoyed cooking and eating cockles. At their best they’re sweet, plump and meaty, and full of character. The adornment of vinegar, although popular, doesn’t do this wonderful bivalve justice. Cockles are, without question, as versatile as mussels and equally easy to cook. So think of them next time you plan to cook mussels, and warm a few hearts along the way.

Serves 2 - 4

Ingredients

1kg live cockles, or mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded if you can’t find cockles
1 medium leek
1 tbsp olive oil
Small knob of butter
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed
20ml Pernod or other pastis mixed with 100ml water
100ml double cream
2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lemon wedges, to serve
Bread and butter, to serve

Method

Thoroughly rinse the cockles, discarding any shells that are cracked or broken. Scrub them well to remove any sand or grit. If the shells are open, give them a light tap, if they don’t close, discard them.

Trim away the tough green part of the leek, trim back the root, then slice into 0.5 to 1cm rounds. Wash the slices well in plenty of cold water, drain and set aside.

Heat a large heavy-based pan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and butter. When it begins to foam, add the leeks. Cook gently for 4 to 5 minutes, turning them occasionally until soft but not coloured. Add the garlic, crushed fennel seeds and a little salt and pepper, cook for a further minute.

Turn the heat up, add the cockles along with the diluted Pernod and the cream. Put a lid on the pan and bring up to a lively simmer. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, shaking the pan now and then, until the cockles have opened. Discard any that remain closed.

Use a slotted spoon to lift the cockles into warm serving bowls. Add the chopped dill to the sauce, stir well and taste, adjusting the seasoning if needed.

Spoon the leeks and the creamy dill and fennel sauce over the cockles and serve straight away with bread and butter and wedges of lemon.

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