• 500g (1 lb 2 oz) strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting
• 10g (⅓ oz) sea salt
• 1 heaped teaspoon quick yeast
• 50ml (1¾ oz) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for oiling and trickling
• 3 firm, bright fennel bulbs
• 1 lemon, sliced into 5–10mm (⅛–½ in) rounds
• 4–5 rosemary sprigs
• 6–8 thyme sprigs
• a handful of fennel tops
• flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the flour, sea salt and yeast in a large bowl. Add the oil and 400ml (14fl oz) of water and combine to a fairly wet dough. Turn out the dough on to a lightly floured surface and knead it for about 10 minutes, until smooth. (You can use a mixer with a dough hook for this part, if you have one.) Form the dough into a rough round and drop it into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean tea towel and leave it to prove in a warm place for 1½–2 hours, or until doubled in size.

Meanwhile, trim the very base from the fennel bulbs and peel away any damaged or discoloured layers. (If the fennel is older, this outermost layer can be tough or stringy.) Trim the tops from the fennel if they are excessive and give the bulbs a rinse if they need it. Cut the bulbs from tip to root into wedges. You should get at least 6 wedges from each.

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/Gas 6.

Place the fennel pieces into a large roasting tin in a single layer and trickle them with 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the fennel with a sheet of kitchen foil and roast for 30–35 minutes, turning the wedges part way through, then remove the foil and roast for a further 5–10 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

When the dough is ready, reheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/425°F/Gas 7. Generously oil a medium baking sheet (I use a square one about 30 x 30cm and 4cm deep/12 x 12 x 1½ in). Turn out the dough on to the tray and press it out towards the edges with your fingers. Arrange the fennel over the surface of the dough, then tuck in the slices of lemon. Tear the herbs and scatter them over the top, then press everything deep into the dough with your fingers. Cover the tray and leave the dough to rise for a further 35–45 minutes, until light and airy.

Uncover the tray and carefully push the fennel and lemon back down into the risen dough. Trickle generously with extra-virgin olive oil and bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 35–40 minutes, until cooked through and golden. Remove from the oven, add more extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with flaky sea salt and cracked black pepper. Allow it to rest until cool enough to turn out, then cut it up to serve.