Lamb ribs with fennel, garlic and lemon

Lamb ribs with fennel, garlic and lemon

Summer

There’s something irresistible about the combination of sizzling lamb fat, heat and smoke. Here I prefer to use long, meaty (and fatty) ribs cut from the breast of a hogget (a sheep in its second year). But you could use the ribs from a slightly younger animal; pork ribs work well too. The ribs are teamed with lemon to cut through their richness, and fennel which adds its own sweetness. I also use fennel stalks and fronds if I have them, to perfume the smoke.

Serves 4

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg hogget or lamb ribs, cut long from the thick end
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tbsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed
  • Grated zest and juice of 1 large lemon
  • A good pinch of dried chilli flakes
  • Fresh fennel stalks and fronds from the top of the bulb (if available)
  • 2–3 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
  • Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Light your fire. You’re looking for a medium-hot bed of glowing embers that give off a nice even heat.

Set a grill over the embers – I like to use one that I can lift off quickly, so I can easily deal with any flare-ups from the dripping fat. You’re ready to cook when you can hover your hand above the grill for a maximum of 4 seconds.

Place the ribs on a large tray. Mix 1 tbsp olive oil with the crushed fennel seeds, lemon zest, chilli flakes and plenty of salt and pepper. Rub all over the ribs to coat.

Place the ribs on the grill over the fire. Cook, turning regularly, for 15–20 minutes until lovely and brown, and looking delicious. Then, if you have some fennel stalks, lift the ribs off and cover the grill with them. Return the ribs to the grill and cook over the smoking fennel for another 10 minutes or so. (If you don’t have fennel stalks then simply cook the ribs for a further 10 minutes anyway.)

Remove the ribs to a clean tray and rest near the fire. Brush the fennel stalks aside (into the fire) and place a small pan on the grill. Add the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil followed by the garlic. Allow to sizzle for 30–40 seconds, but don’t let it burn.

Pour the garlicky oil over the ribs. Add the fennel tops and lemon juice and tumble together. Season with a little flaky salt and serve at once, with napkins.

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