Method
Start by making the dressing. Place the mustard, garlic, sugar and vinegar in a bowl with some salt and pepper. Whisk the ingredients together, then gradually start trickling in the oils, whisking all the time. The dressing will thicken. Once you’ve added all the oils, add the lovage, then taste and adjust the seasoning, sharpness or sweetness as required. Set aside.
Give the lentils a good rinse, then place them in a pan with the bay leaves and onion and cover with plenty of water. Set the pan on a high heat and bring the water to the simmer. Simmer for 20 minutes, skimming the cooking liquid occasionally, or until the lentils are just tender. Drain, discard the onion in the compost, and, while the lentils are still warm, fold through half the dressing.
While the lentils are cooking, set up your steamer. Arrange the leek rounds over the base of the steaming basket – you can layer them up, if necessary, just make sure you season each layer with a good pinch of salt. Place a lid on the steamer and steam for 4–5 minutes, or until the leeks are just cooked.
Arrange the warm leeks over a large serving platter. Season them with salt and pepper and trickle them with the tablespoon of olive oil. Spoon over the dressed, lovagey lentils, then strew the whole plate with the parsley leaves. Dash the remaining dressing all over the top, and serve.