Little pollack and pickled samphire tacos

Little pollack and pickled samphire tacos

Spring

A few years ago, I clubbed together with a couple of friends and bought an old airstream trailer. Her name was Sylvia. We fitted her out and took her to London to make our fortune. We sold amazing homemade seasonal tacos and everyone loved them. The slow-roast pork belly with gooseberry salsa was my favourite. For one reason or another, Sylvia had to go, but I still enjoy playing around with my unusual taco ideas. This spiced pollack and samphire one would have definitely made the menu. You can pick wild samphire around tidal flats and estuaries in late spring and summer and it’s easy to identify. However, with a little notice, your local fishmonger should be able to get you some.

Makes 8

Ingredients

  • 500g (1lb 2oz) pollack or other white fish fillet
  • 1 tablespoon sea salt
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 12 ripe cherry tomatoes
  • 2 teaspoons coarsely crushed cumin seeds
  • ½ teaspoon chilli flakes, plus extra to serve

For the tortillas

  • 250g (9oz) plain (all-purpose) flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon sea salt
  • 50ml (1¾ oz) sunflower oil, plus extra for oiling the pan

For the pickled samphire

  • 75g (2½ oz) marsh samphire
  • ½ small onion, finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • a handful of coriander (cilantro), leaves picked and chopped

To serve

  • 4 tablespoons sour cream
  • a handful of tender mint leaves

Method

Start by making the tortilla dough. Place the flour, baking powder, and salt into a bowl and whisk to combine. In another bowl, combine 110ml (3¾ fl oz) of water with the oil and add this to the flour. Mix until it forms a dough, knead for a few minutes until smooth, then cover and leave it to rest.

Cut the fish fillet into 8 thick slices. Combine the tablespoon of salt with 500ml (17½ fl oz) of cold water and stir to dissolve. Place the fish in the brine and leave it for 15–20 minutes. Meanwhile, place the samphire in a bowl with the onion, cider vinegar, sugar, and coriander (cilantro) and mix. Set aside.

Lift the fish out of the brine and pat the pieces dry with kitchen paper or a clean tea towel. Trickle the fish and the tomatoes with the extra-virgin olive oil, then sprinkle them with the crushed cumin and the chilli flakes. Set the seasoned fish and tomatoes aside until you’re ready to cook them.

Use a sharp knife to cut the dough into 8 equal pieces, then roll each into a neat round on a floured surface. Each tortilla should be nice and thin – about 12–15cm (4½–6in) in diameter. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a hot fire. Lightly oil the base of the pan and lay a tortilla down in it. If the pan’s hot enough, the surface of the tortilla will begin to bubble. After 25–30 seconds you can flip it and cook the other side. You want some patches of colour and charring. Cook all the tortillas in this way, setting each aside to keep warm.

Set a fine grill over the fire. Make sure the embers are hot. Lay the fish, skin-side down, and the tomatoes on the grill. Cook the fish for 2–3 minutes on each side and the tomatoes until they split and blister.

To serve, place a piece of fish and a couple of tomatoes on each tortilla. Pile on some pickled samphire, a spoonful of sour cream, and finish with a scattering of mint leaves and chilli flakes.