• A little oil
• 200g bacon lardons or streaky bacon, chopped
• 2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced
• 2 tbsp chopped sage
• A splash of brandy (optional)
• 400ml pork or chicken stock
• 2 sprigs of thyme
• 400g very fresh lamb’s or pig’s liver
• 100g plain flour, for coating
• Oil or 1 tsp lard, for frying
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the mash

• 1kg large white potatoes, peeled
• 200ml whole milk
• 100g unsalted butter

Heat a large pan over a medium-low heat and add a little oil, followed by the bacon. Cook gently until the fat renders and the bacon begins to colour.

Add the onions and cook gently for 15–20 minutes, stirring regularly, until soft and beginning to caramelise. Add the garlic and sage and cook for a further 3–4 minutes.

Add the brandy, if using, and reduce by half. Pour in the stock, add the thyme and some pepper, and simmer for 15–20 minutes until reduced by about two-thirds. Keep warm.

Trim the liver and slice into 1cm thick pieces. Season and lightly coat in flour.

Heat a frying pan until hot and add oil or lard. Cook the liver for 1 minute on each side only. Remove and add to the onion mixture. Toss gently and warm through briefly.

To make the mash, cut the potatoes into even pieces. Boil in salted water for 15–20 minutes until tender. Drain and allow to steam dry.

Heat the milk and butter together until just simmering. Mash the potatoes, gradually adding the milk mixture until smooth and light. Season with salt and keep warm.

Serve with mash and mustard.