Mussel croquettes

Mussel croquettes

Autumn

It’s impossible to refuse a well-made croquette, irrefutably one of the tastiest canapés of all. These are the most delicious croquettes I’ve ever eaten. Use fresh, plump mussels and save the cooking liquor, which is packed with flavour, to form the basis of the croquettes. Lovage is a soft, green herb that goes particularly well with mussels; its flavour is somewhere between celery and cumin. If you can’t find lovage, flat-leaf parsley will work well.

Makes 8–12

Ingredients

  • 50g (2oz) butter, plus a small knob of butter for frying
  • 1⁄2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large shallot or small onion, finely diced
  • 1 garlic clove, peeled and grated
  • 1kg (2lb 4oz) mussels, cleaned and debearded (discard any with broken or open shells)
  • 125g (4½oz) plain flour
  • 50ml (2fl oz) double cream
  • 1 tablespoon chopped lovage or parsley
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 100g (3½oz) white breadcrumbs
  • light vegetable oil, such as sunflower, for deep frying
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Set a large pan over a medium heat, add the knob of butter and the olive oil and, when bubbling, add the diced shallot or onion and the garlic. Cook for 3–4 minutes, until the shallot or onion is soft but not coloured. Turn up the heat to high and add the mussels along with a splash of water, a pinch of salt and a twist of black pepper. Place a lid on the pan and cook for 2–4 minutes to allow the shells to open up. Tip the mussels and all the liquid into a large bowl, discard any shells that remain closed, and allow to cool. Once cool, scoop out the mussels from the cooking liquid using a slotted spoon. Reserve 200ml (7fl oz) of the cooking liquid and as many of the lovely diced shallots as you can. Remove the mussel meat from each shell and roughly chop.

Melt the 50g (2oz) of butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat, add 50g (2oz) of the flour and cook it out for 1–2 minutes. Gradually, add the reserved mussel-cooking liquor, stirring all the time. Bring to a simmer and stir until it is very thick and bubbling. Add the cream, the chopped mussels, and the herbs and season with salt and pepper. Stir well and remove from the heat. Spoon out the mixture over a plate lined with a large sheet of cling film. Fold the excess cling film over the top of the mixture and place in the fridge to chill until set firm.

Once the mixture has set, shape it into balls or quenelles. Dip each one into the remaining flour, followed by the beaten egg, then roll in breadcrumbs until well coated. Pour enough oil into a deep saucepan to come 10cm (4in) up the sides. Heat the vegetable oil to 180°C/350°F, or until a cube of white bread turns golden within a minute. Deep-fry the croquettes until browned and crisp (about 3–4 minutes), then remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Serve hot, but not boiling hot.