Mussels with parsley, white wine & sauté potatoes

Mussels with parsley, white wine & sauté potatoes

Autumn

I’d like a map on which to plot all the places I’ve sat and eaten mussels cooked like this. What shape would the waypoints make? This is a dish I never had to learn to love; I loved it the first time my mum made it for me and I’ve loved it every time it’s been made (properly) for me since. When it’s served with chips, it’s called moules-frites, Belgium’s national dish and something we see on menus throughout much of France. But I like to make my version with sauté potatoes instead. I find them less hassle than chips, and actually they’re tastier.

Serves 4

Ingredients

  • 1 knob of butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 2 or 3 small shallots, diced
  • 1 garlic clove, peeled and thinly sliced
  • ½ glass of white wine
  • 100ml (3½fl oz) double cream
  • 2.5kg (5lb 8oz) large mussels, cleaned and debearded (discard any with broken or open shells)
  • small bunch of parsley, leaves picked and chopped
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the sauté potatoes

  • 500g (1lb 2oz) large white potatoes, peeled and cut into smallish bite-sized cubes
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil, or a lighter oil
  • 1 small bunch of oregano or marjoram, or 2 teaspoons dried

Method

First, make the sauté potatoes. Place the potatoes in a large pan and cover with water. Salt the water, then place the pan over a medium–high heat. Bring the potatoes to the boil and cook, uncovered, until they are just tender, about 10–12 minutes. Drain the potatoes, gently roughing their edges with a little shake of the colander, and then leave them in the colander for the steam to evaporate. Heat a large heavy-based frying pan over a high heat. Add the oil, and when hot add the potatoes in a single layer (you may have to cook in batches). Scatter over the oregano or marjoram and season with salt and pepper. Use a spatula to turn the potatoes every so often, until they are golden and crisp on all sides, about 15–20 minutes. Line a dish with some kitchen paper, gently tip in the potatoes and keep them warm in a low oven.

To cook the mussels, heat the butter and olive oil in a large, heavy-based pan over a medium heat. When it’s bubbling away, add the shallots and garlic, along with a pinch of salt and a good twist of black pepper. Cook the shallots, stirring regularly, for 4–5 minutes, until soft, but not coloured. Turn up the heat to high and add the wine and cream. As soon as the liquid comes to a rolling boil, throw in the mussels. Stir carefully, then immediately place a tight-fitting lid on the pan. Cook for 2–4 minutes, giving the pan a good shake every so often, until the mussel shells are all just open. Turn the parsley through the mussels and remove the pan from the heat. Discard any mussels that haven’t opened up. Transfer the mussels and all their sauce to a large, shallow dish, scatter over the warm, crispy potatoes and bring the whole lot to the table.

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