Method
Place the cumin, coriander and black peppercorns in a small pan and set over a low heat. Toast the spices for 1–2 minutes, then tip them into a pestle and mortar and crush them.
Combine the sliced onions and garlic in a bowl with the gram flour, curry powder, crushed spices, turmeric, black onion seeds and salt. Add the water and mix well with a wooden spoon or your hands. They’re usually the best tool for the job.
Pour the oil into a deep, heavy-based saucepan to a depth of about 8–10cm and place over a medium heat. The oil should be hot, but not overly hot, to allow the bhajis to cook through without the outside burning. Test the temperature by dropping a small pinch of batter into the oil. It should fizz, bubble and crisp within a minute.
Take loose dessertspoonfuls of the mixture and drop them carefully into the hot oil. Fry, turning if necessary, for about 2 minutes. Lift the bhajis out onto a plate lined with kitchen paper.
Combine the yoghurt and goat’s cheese in a bowl and mix well. Add the garlic, chilli, black onion seeds and chives. Season with salt and pepper and stir well.
Arrange the bhajis on a warm serving platter and sprinkle lightly with salt. Spoon the dip into a small bowl and serve alongside.