• 2 live lobsters, 1–1.5kg each
• A bucket of fresh, damp seaweed, such as kelp or bladderwrack
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

• Lemon wedges

You will also need

• 4 fire bricks or equivalent large stones

For the aïoli

• 2 very fresh egg yolks
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated, then crushed to a paste
• 1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard
• 1 tbsp cider vinegar or lemon juice
• 200ml light olive oil
• 200ml sunflower oil

Light a large fire next to the spot where you intend to dig your pit. Put your fire bricks or stones into the fire to heat up. It will take between 1½ and 2½ hours of consistent heating before they are ready, so you’ll need to keep feeding the fire.

In the meantime, dig your pit, with clean sides and a flat base, approximately 40–50cm square and 30–40cm deep. Place the live lobsters in a freezer for 45 minutes, to sedate them.

To make the aïoli, whisk the egg yolks, garlic, mustard and vinegar or lemon juice together in a bowl to combine. Now start to add the oils in a thin trickle, whisking constantly. When the oil starts to emulsify with the yolks you can add it a little faster. If things have gone to plan you will have a thick, glossy, garlicky mayonnaise. If it’s too thick add 1 tbsp warm water to loosen it slightly. Cover and set aside until ready to serve.

Take the lobsters from the freezer and dispatch them quickly: put one on a large board with the head towards you and insert the tip of a sharp, heavy knife into the cross at the top of the lobster’s head. Press down firmly, cutting through the head towards you. Repeat with the second lobster.

Using heavy-duty tongs or a spade, place half the hot bricks or stones in the base of the pit and quickly lay half the damp seaweed over the stones to make a deep, steamy nest. Nestle in the lobsters, side by side, cover with the remaining seaweed and lay the rest of the hot bricks on top. Cover with earth (or shingle if you’re on the beach) and leave for an hour to cook.

When the time is up, carefully remove the earth or shingle and stones to reveal the seaweed. Gather this up (it’ll be hot), trying to keep the lobsters beneath quite clean, and hoik it out of the way. Lift the lobsters out of the pit and rinse to clean if necessary.

Place one lobster on a board with the tail facing you and use a large, heavy knife to cut centrally from the split in the head down though to the tip of the tail in one firm motion, so you end up with two even halves. Repeat with the second lobster. Use the back of the knife to crack the claws then bring everything to the table (if there is one). Serve with lemon wedges, aïoli, good bread and a green salad.