Rabbit with mustard, leeks, rosemary & cream

Rabbit with mustard, leeks, rosemary & cream

Winter

I once worked in a pub called The Fox. It was the most quintessential of village pubs, with worn flagstone floors, big log fires, low ceilings and good beer. Even the local mounted hunt would gallop by, almost on cue, as people arrived for lunch. My friend George was the head chef there, and after Sunday’s service had come to a close, we would sit in the bar and get drunk and talk for hours about food and cooking. He showed me a very simple rabbit dish, which I’ve always loved. He cooked it in local cider and double cream; it was wonderfully rich. This is my version.

Serves 2

Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 wild rabbit, jointed
  • 100g (3½oz) plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
  • 6 rosemary sprigs
  • 3 thyme sprigs
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 knobs of butter
  • 2 large leeks, trimmed halved and sliced thinly
  • 300ml (10½fl oz) cider
  • 300ml (10½fl oz) double cream
  • 2–3 teaspoons Dijon mustard
  • 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium–high heat. Toss the rabbit lightly in the seasoned flour, then add it to the pan, with the sprigs of rosemary and thyme and the bay. Fry for 8–10 minutes, or until the meat is golden brown on all sides and smelling delicious. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Melt the butter in a separate large, heavy-based pan over a medium heat. When it’s bubbling add the leeks. Sweat them gently for 10–12 minutes, until they are soft and silky. Add the rabbit and all its pan juices and herbs, then add the cider and cream. Bring everything up to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 1½–2 hours, or until the meat is very tender. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the mustard. Finish with a generous sprinkling of parsley and take to the table straight away. Serve with mashed or sautéed potatoes.