Taramasalata, crackling & kale

Taramasalata, crackling & kale

Winter

I stand by the kitchen table. You look at me and say: I’ve been hungry all my life. I try to name it, make it a thing, but my words thicken. You say: a memory doesn’t need a name. As you lean in, I see bits of wildness in you.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

  • 300–400g (10½–14oz) pork skin from the shoulder or loins, with 5mm (1/4in) of fat on its underside
  • 1 bunch of red Russian or Tuscan curly kale, tough stalks removed
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • for the taramasalata
  • 3–4 thick slices of stale country bread or sourdough
  • about 200ml (7fl oz) whole milk
  • 250g (9oz) smoked cod roe
  • 1 small garlic clove, peeled and grated
  • 150ml (5fl oz) good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
  • 150ml (5fl oz) sunflower oil
  • juice of ½ lemon

Method

Begin by making the taramasalata. Tear up the bread and place it in a bowl, pour over the milk and allow the bread to soak for about 5 minutes. Place the roe on a board and use a sharp knife to split the skin across the roe. Take a spoon and carefully scoop out the tender roe into a food processor. Squeeze out the excess milk from the bread and add the soaked bread to the roe, along with the grated garlic. Combine the oils in a jug, then switch on the machine and gradually trickle them in, a little at a time. The principle here is similar to making mayonnaise: once all the oil has been combined, add the lemon juice and taste – it shouldn’t need seasoning. (If it becomes too thick – which can happen – add a little water to loosen.)

To get the best crackling, it’s really important that the pork skin is dry to the touch. Keep it uncovered on the bottom shelf of the fridge overnight, or even for a couple of days. When you’re ready to cook the crackling, heat the oven to 230–240°C/450–475°F/gas mark 8.

Place the dry skin, fat-side down on a board. Take a sharp knife and cut the skin into 3–4cm (1¼–1½in) strips. Place a metal rack over a roasting tray and lay the strips of skin on top, fat-side down. Season all over with salt, then place in the oven for 15–25 minutes, or until the crackling is puffed and popped, light and golden. If it’s not quite there after this time, turn down the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 and cook for a further 10–15 minutes, or until you think it’s done. Remove from the oven and set aside to keep warm.

Reduce the oven temperature to 100°C/200°F/gas mark ½. Toss the kale leaves in 1 tablespoon of olive oil and a good pinch of salt. Arrange the leaves in a single layer over one or more large baking trays. Bake for 30–35 minutes, turning once or twice, until the kale is glass brittle. Spoon the taramasalata into a bowl, season with pepper, if you like, and serve with the crackling and kale for dipping.