Rhubarb & cicely jelly

Rhubarb & cicely jelly

Spring

Some of the best jellies are sharp things we’ve made sweet. Take lemon jelly as an example. A good one will make you shudder and smile at the same time. Rhubarb makes a gorgeous jelly: its sour, fruity juice is perfect for it. Cicely, a herb I like to use in the spring and summer, works really nicely with rhubarb. It’s sugary on the tongue, giving it a natural sweetness that means you can cut back the refined sugar content a little. I like to serve the jelly with a scattering of this sweet green herb over the top and some candied raw rhubarb sticks on the side.

Makes 4 jellies

Ingredients

  • 6 bright, fresh rhubarb stems, trimmed and cut into 2–3cm (¾–1¼in) pieces
  • 175g (6oz) granulated sugar
  • 1 small bunch of sweet cicely, plus a few extra flowers to decorate
  • up to 4 sheets of gelatin

For the candied rhubarb

  • 4 very young rhubarb stalks (or 1 larger one cut into long, thin sticks)
  • 1–2 teaspoons runny honey
  • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

Method

Place the rhubarb in a large heavy-based pan along with the sugar, sweet cicely and 400ml (14fl oz) of water. Set the pan over a medium heat and bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, stirring once or twice to help break down the rhubarb a little. Cook gently for 6–8 minutes, or until the rhubarb is pulpy and everything smells lovely and fragrant. Switch off the heat and allow the liquid to cool to room temperature. This gives the cicely the maximum time to infuse.

Once the rhubarb has cooled, pass the juice through a sieve lined with a piece of muslin or thin cotton cloth. You can either leave it to drip through of its own accord or you can gather up the cloth and encourage every last drop out by squeezing gently.

You should have about 500ml (17fl oz) of liquid. Soak the correct amount of gelatin sheets to set that quantity of liquid (usually about four leaves, but check the packet instructions) in cold water for 2–3 minutes until soft.

Put the rhubarb juice in a clean pan and warm it through to just below boiling point. Add the soaked gelatin leaves, and stir well to dissolve. Pour the jelly into moulds or glasses, or as I have here, onto a relatively deep plate. Carefully place the jellies in the fridge and leave for at least 1 hour to set.

Before serving, make the candied rhubarb. Brush the little rhubarb stems with some runny honey, then roll them in the sugar to coat. To serve, set these tangy canes down next to the jelly, which you can, if you have them, scatter with some cicely flowers.