Slow-roast goat with honey, saffron, prunes & preserved lemon

Slow-roast goat with honey, saffron, prunes & preserved lemon

Winter

Goat and kid have had a renaissance in recent years, and rightly so. The meat is delicious – and it’s ethically sound. Many billy goats (a by-product of the dairy industry), which were once killed at birth, are now reared for meat. If you like the depth of flavour in lamb and mutton, then goat will definitely be your jam. Saffron, cumin and cardamom add character to this rich braise, while cinnamon, prunes and honey bring gorgeous sweetness.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

  • ½ cinnamon stick
  • 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
  • 2 teaspoons coriander seeds
  • 6 cardamom pods
  • 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
  • ½ goat leg (about 800g–1kg/1lb 12oz–2lb 4oz), boned and rolled
  • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 onions, finely sliced
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
  • 1 red chilli, deseeded and thinly sliced
  • 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and grated
  • 2 tablespoons tomato purée
  • 200g (7oz) juicy prunes, stoned
  • pinch of saffron threads
  • 1 preserved lemon, skin thickly sliced, flesh discarded
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 small bunch of thyme, torn
  • 1 small bunch of mint, leaves picked and chopped
  • pinch of smoked paprika, to serve
  • 1–2 tablespoons runny honey
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Place the cinnamon, cumin, coriander, and cardamom pods in a small pan over a medium heat. Toast for 1–2 minutes, until fragrant, then tip them into a mortar and use the pestle to coarsely crush. Pick out and discard the cardamom husks, which are tricky to grind well.

Combine the crushed spices with the turmeric and plenty of salt and pepper. Rub the goat leg with half the olive oil, then work the dry spice mix into the meat, making sure you get it in all the nooks and crannies. Place the goat leg on a suitable roasting tray and place in the hot oven for 25–30 minutes, until browned.

Meanwhile, set a large cast-iron pot (with a lid) over a medium heat. Add the remaining olive oil and, when it’s hot, add the onions, garlic, chilli and ginger and cook, stirring regularly, for 10–12 minutes. Add the tomato purée, prunes, saffron, preserved lemon, bay leaves and 1 glass of water and stir well. Bring to a gentle simmer.

When the goat leg is nice and brown, lift it out of the oven and carefully place it in the pot. Scatter around the thyme, place on the lid and put the pot in the oven. Lower the heat to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2 and cook for 2½ hours, until the meat is tender and giving. (Check the pot from time to time, and if it’s looking dry, top it up with a splash more water.) Remove from the oven and allow the goat to rest for 15–20 minutes before serving.

To serve, sprinkle with chopped mint and a pinch of paprika and trickle with honey, then bring the pot to the table and enjoy with with flat breads and a salad.

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