For the flatbreads

• 500g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 tsp fast action dried yeast
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing
• 4 tbsp natural yoghurt

For the hogget (or lamb)

• 1 hogget, mutton or lamb shoulder, bone in, about 3 to 4kg
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 3 to 4 small onions peeled and halved or quartered
• 1 to 2 bulbs of garlic, halved around their circumference
• A handful of fennel fronds (if available) roughly chopped
• A few sprigs of rosemary, leaves picked and roughly chopped
• A few sprigs of sage, leaves picked and roughly chopped
• A good pinch of chilli flakes
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• A glass of cider or white wine

For the rhubarb hot sauce

• 4 firm stems of rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 2 to 3cm pieces
• 1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced
• ½ to 1 medium hot red chilli, finely chopped
• 2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
• 4 tablespoons soft brown sugar
• 3 tablespoons cider vinegar
• A pinch of salt

To serve

• 200g good feta cheese
• A small bunch of fresh dill
• A little runny honey

Start with the dough. Place the flour, salt and yeast in a large bowl. Add the olive oil, yoghurt and 275ml water and mix to form a dough.

Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes until soft and smooth. Shape into a round, place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover and leave to rise in a warm place for up to 24 hours.

When you’re ready to cook the meat, heat the oven to 200°C conventional, 180°C fan.

Place the hogget shoulder in a large roasting tray. Rub it all over with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Scatter the chopped fennel, sage and rosemary over the surface of the meat along with the chilli flakes. Arrange the onions and garlic around the meat and pop it in the oven. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes until nicely coloured.

Remove the tray from the oven, pour in the cider, cover the meat fairly tightly with parchment and foil, turn the oven down to 170°C conventional, 150°C fan and return the tray to the oven.

Cook slowly for 3 to 4 hours or until the meat is very tender and coming away easily from the bone. Remove and leave to rest for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the rhubarb hot sauce. Place the rhubarb, red onion, chilli, garlic, sugar, cider vinegar and a pinch of salt into a pan. Cook very gently, stirring regularly, until the rhubarb softens but still holds some shape. Taste and adjust the balance with a little more sugar or vinegar if needed, then leave to cool.

Once the meat has had a chance to rest uncover it and carefully fork the shards and chunks of the tender meat away from the bone. Squeeze the garlic out of its skin, tumble the meat through the onions and soft garlic and the roasting juices. Season the meat well with more salt and pepper so it’s just right. Keep warm.

Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 4 equal pieces. Shape into rounds and leave to rest for about 20 minutes, then roll out quite thinly.

Lightly brush one side of each flatbread with olive oil, fold them in half and place into a very hot dry pan. Cook until they begin to colour on the underside, then transfer to a very hot grill to finish cooking the top. They should puff up and blister in places.

Remove and keep warm. When ready to serve, gently open each folded flatbread.

Fill the flatbreads with the meat, spoon over the rhubarb hot sauce, crumble over the feta and scatter with dill. Finish with a trickle of honey and any extra roasting juices from the pan, serve straight away.