Slow-roast mutton shoulder with garden herbs

Slow-roast mutton shoulder with garden herbs

Spring

For this recipe you’ll need a place to gather; at least half a dozen kind people; six or seven slow, lazy hours, and the heat from a low stove; a table, simply laid; two or three bottles of honest, interesting wine; the capacity to share, down to the bone; hands to hold, bread to break and a spoon to serve the meat. Everything else is just garden herbs and mutton.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

  • 1 mutton shoulder, bone in (about 3–4kg/6 1⁄2–9lb)
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 bunch of mixed herbs, such as rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme, bay leaves, marjoram, fennel tops
  • 2 garlic bulbs, halved around their circumference
  • 1 glass of cider
  • 1 heaped tablespoon plain flour
  • 300ml (10 1⁄2fl oz) vegetable, chicken or lamb stock
  • 2 teaspoons fruit jelly, such as redcurrant or crab apple
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Place the mutton shoulder in a large roasting tray and rub all over with the olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper and place it in the hot oven for 35–40 minutes, until the meat has taken on some colour and is already smelling delicious. Remove the tray from the oven and add the whole herbs, the halved garlic bulbs and the cider. Cover the joint with baking parchment, then the whole tray with foil, crimping it tightly around the edges to keep in the steam.

Turn down the heat to 120°C/235°F/gas mark 1 and return the mutton to the oven. Cook for 6 hours, until the meat is really tender and giving. Then remove the tray from the oven and leave the meat to stand for 20–25 minutes before removing the foil and parchment. Carefully lift the mutton from the tray to a wooden board or a platter.

Use a large spoon to skim off the excess fat from the roasting juices and lift out any remaining whole herbs so that you can use the juices to make a simple gravy. Set the tray over a low heat, add the plain flour and, using a wooden spoon or spatula, work it into the remaining herbs and soft, roasted garlic, scratching free any caramelized sticky bits from the base of the tray. Add the stock and the fruit jelly, stir, then bring up to a simmer and cook for a few minutes to thicken it. Pass the contents of the tray through a sieve into a clean saucepan and bring back to a simmer before adjusting the seasoning to taste. Serve the mutton with the gravy and some simple seasonal vegetables.