Smoky pickled mushrooms with coriander seed and cider vinegar

Autumn

I like to make a few jars of these pickled mushrooms in the early autumn. They’re simple to prepare and keep brilliantly. I serve them as a sharp little addition to game terrines, soft-rind cow’s cheeses and fatty cured meats. Let the fire smoulder softly. The idea is to intensify the flavour of the mushrooms and give them a smoky edge.

Fills a 500ml (17fl oz) jar

Ingredients

350–400g (12–14oz) mixed mushrooms, such as portobello, chestnut and king oyster
200ml (7fl oz) apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 small garlic clove, bashed

Method

Thickly slice the bigger mushrooms, halve smaller ones, and leave the really small ones whole. If the stems are overly fibrous, discard them. Arrange the mushrooms over a grill and set them down over a gentle, smoky fire. Let the mushrooms sit over the warm fire for 10–12 minutes, turning them once or twice. They shouldn’t cook as such, but you do want them to dry off a little.

Meanwhile, combine the vinegar with the sugar, peppercorns, bay leaves, coriander seeds and bashed garlic in a small pan. Heat the vinegar mixture over the fire – it wants to be hot, but it doesn’t need to boil.

Lift the mushrooms off the grill and pack them into a 500ml (17fl oz) jar. Pour over the vinegar mixture, making sure it covers the mushrooms. You might need to push them down below the surface with a fork, or a scrupulously clean beach pebble will keep them submerged. Seal the jar with the lid and refrigerate the pickled mushrooms for at least 3–4 days before serving.

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