• a small knob of butter
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced
• 2 large carrots, peeled and sliced into 1cm (½ in) rounds
• 1 red chilli, halved and deseeded
• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 300g (10½ oz) red lentils, rinsed
• 1 litre (35fl oz) vegetable or chicken stock
• 2–3 tablespoons natural (plain) yogurt
• 3–4 tablespoons buckwheat groats
• 2 tablespoons tamari sauce
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the butter and the oil to the pan and when they’re bubbling, add the onion, garlic, carrots, chilli, and coriander and cumin seeds. Season well with salt and pepper, then fry gently without colouring anything too much for 10 minutes.

Add the red lentils, stir once or twice and pour over the stock. Bring up to a gentle simmer and cook for 25 minutes, or until the lentils and carrots are tender. Take the pan off the heat and give it 10 minutes to cool off before puréeing the soup until it’s lovely and smooth. Return the soup to the pan and return the pan to the heat. Bring the soup back to a simmer and season well to taste. Switch off the heat and stir in the yogurt.

Meanwhile, place a small saucepan over a medium heat. Add the buckwheat and tamari and stir well to coat. Sizzle the buckwheat groats, scraping at them periodically with a spatula, until the tamari has bubbled away and it all smells deeply savoury. Allow to cool, then transfer to an airtight container until you’re ready to serve.

For a picnic, pour the soup into a flask and serve it in your chosen spot, in cups, sprinkled with the toasted buckwheat. (At home, in bowls, is delicious, too, of course.)