Squash, chicory, hazelnuts & rosemary

Squash, chicory, hazelnuts & rosemary

Winter

Simple cooking is about understanding the balance of flavour and texture and how these components play out together on a plate. When you’re using only three or four ingredients, there’s nowhere to hide, so things really have to be there for a reason, or not at all. This wintry salad goes some way towards illustrating this point, and it does it in the most achievable and enjoyable of ways. I’ve used firm red chicory heads here, but you could use chunky wedges of radicchio, another of my favourite bitter-tasting leaves.

Serves 4

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 onion, halved and thinly sliced
  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
  • 750g (1lb 10oz) butternut squash, peeled and cut into 2–4cm (¾–1½in) cubes
  • 150ml (5fl oz) vegetable stock
  • 4 small heads of red chicory, halved
  • 2 or 3 rosemary sprigs, roughly chopped
  • 100g (3½oz) blanched hazelnuts
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

First, make a butternut squash purée. Set a large heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil to the pan, followed by the onion, two-thirds of the garlic, and all the squash. Season with a little salt and pepper. Gently fry, stirring regularly, for 10–12 minutes, then pour in the vegetable stock. Place a lid on the pan and cook for a further 15–20 minutes, or until the squash is tender.

Remove the pan from the heat and allow the contents to cool for 5–10 minutes. Spoon out the squash, onions and garlic into a jug blender, ensuring that you don’t add too much liquid as you do so, as you want the purée to be nice and thick. Whiz the mixture until completely smooth. Season the purée to taste and set aside.

Set a large heavy griddle pan over a really high heat. When it’s smoking hot, add the chicory heads, trickle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Griddle the chicory until it’s charred on the outside and tender in the middle; 8–10 minutes on each side.

In a small pan, heat the remaining olive oil over a medium heat. Add the remaining garlic, the rosemary and the blanched hazelnuts. Fry gently for 3–4 minutes, until the garlic is soft, but not burned. Season with salt, remove from the heat and set aside.

To serve, spoon the purée out over a large, warm serving plate. Top with the chargrilled chicory and finish by scattering over the warm salty, garlicky hazelnuts.