This is a light, summery way to enjoy trout. You don’t cook it, but lightly cure it by sprinkling over a little sea salt and a shake of sugar. The salt draws out some of the moisture and changes the texture, and it helps the fish draw in flavour, too. That’s why I like to add so many fresh herbs to the mixture and a touch of lemon zest. The trout tastes amazing once it’s ready. You can eat thin slices on toast or you could try presenting it like this, with crunchy radishes and a horseradish dressing made with yogurt, chives, mustard and black pepper.