Trout, potato and dill soup

Trout, potato and dill soup

Summer

This is an understated soup with an underlying elegance. It’s something you might find on the menu in a modern Scandinavian restaurant, but I like to think of it simmering away over a campfire by the riverbank, rod in hand, at dusk. Trout has such a clean, gentle flavour, but a soup like this brings out its subtleties and amplifies them. I use the frame of the fish (including the head) to make the delicious stock, the heart of the soup, but if you have only trout fillets to work with, you can use any good fish stock instead.

Serves 2-3

Ingredients

  • 1 medium trout (about 500–600g / 1lb 2oz–1lb 5oz), scaled and gutted
  • 1 onion, halved and sliced
  • 1 celery stick, thinly sliced
  • A small handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked, stalks reserved
  • A few black peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 large potato (about 350–400g / 12–14oz), peeled and cut into 2–3cm (¾–1¼in) cubes
  • 4 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced
  • A handful of dill, roughly chopped
  • 100ml (3½fl oz) double (heavy) cream
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Use a sharp knife to fillet the trout. Lay the fillets skin-side up and, using a pair of tweezers, remove the line of pin bones that runs down the thicker side of the fillet. Skin the fish by running the knife between the flesh and the skin. Start at the tail end and keep the blade at a slight downward angle and try not to drift up into the flesh as you work along the fillet. It doesn’t matter if you leave some skin on the fish.

Rinse the fish frame and head and place it in a pot with the skin, onion, celery, parsley stalks, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Pour over about 1 litre (35fl½ oz) of water and set the pot over the fire. Bring the stock to a simmer and cook, stirring once or twice, for 3 minutes or so. If it boils too much, you’ll have to add a bit more water.

While the stock is simmering, cut the boneless, skinless trout into bitesize pieces.

When the stock is ready, use a slotted spoon to lift the fish frame and all the other bits out of the pan. Alternatively, pass the stock through a sieve (strainer) into a jug, then return the strained stock to the pan.

Either way, bring the strained stock to a simmer again and add the potato. Cook for 15–20 minutes, or until the cubes are just cooked. Now add the trout flesh and spring onions (scallions) and cook for a couple more minutes. Roughly chop the parsley leaves and add these with the dill to the soup, along with the cream and plenty of salt and pepper. Serve in cups or bowls.