Venison with bay, juniper, orange, celeriac and dark chocolate

Venison with bay, juniper, orange, celeriac and dark chocolate

Winter

There’s something life-affirming about cooking outdoors on cold, crisp, clear days. The warmth from a fire, wood smoke swirling around you, the gentle sound of something rich and delicious simmering away over the embers. It always reminds me that this really is an all-year-round activity, not something we can do only in the summer. This is a fantastic way to cook wild venison — a meat we should all be eating more of, and which is at its best during the winter months.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

  • about 800g (1lb 12oz) wild venison shoulder, trimmed and cut into 4–5cm (1½–2in) pieces
  • 100g (3½oz) plain (all-purpose) flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 200g (7oz) unsmoked bacon lardons
  • 1 onion, thinly sliced
  • 4 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 2 celery sticks, thinly sliced
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 4–6 thyme sprigs
  • 8 juniper berries, lightly bashed
  • pared zest of ½ orange
  • 1 glass of red wine
  • up to 300ml (10½fl oz) game or chicken stock (or water)
  • ½ celeriac (about 400g / 14oz), peeled and cut into 3–4cm (1¼–1½in) cubes
  • 25g (1oz) dark (bitter) chocolate (at least 70% cocoa solids)
  • sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Tumble the venison in the seasoned flour. Set a large casserole dish or cast-iron pot over a medium-hot fire.

Add the oil and, when it’s hot, add the venison. Fry the meat on all sides until it’s lovely and caramelized. Remove the venison and set it aside, then add the bacon to the pan. When the bacon begins to colour, add the onion, garlic, celery, bay leaves, thyme sprigs, juniper berries, orange zest and some salt and pepper. Cook until the onion is soft and sweet.

Return the venison to the pan and pour in the wine. Stir well, reduce by half, then add just enough stock or water to cover. Simmer the venison over a gently burning fire, with a lid set just ajar, for about 1 hour, then add the cubed celeriac and give it all a good stir.

Continue to cook for a further 1½–2 hours, or until the meat is lovely and tender, topping up the liquid if you need to. Break the chocolate into small chunks and stir it into the sauce. Season with salt and pepper, then allow the stew to rest in a warm place for at least 15 minutes before serving.

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